Nicholas Daley

Originally from Leicestershire, Daley graduated from Central St Martins in 2013 and worked closely with Nigel Cabourn as well as legendary Japanese department store Beams while establishing his namesake brand. Now he's properly striking out on his own. This might only be his second season at LFWM, but he's already drawing a crowd of buyers, editors and fanboys who are all attracted to strong vibe - an intelligent and detail-focused approach to menswear that results in seriously good clothes cut from superb fabrics.

It's also about the way he presents these clothes too. This season, Daley was inspired by the great jazz musicians (Miles Davies, Freddie Hubbard, Thelonious Monk) and they way they wore tweed - something that connected his love of this genre of music to his Scottish heritage. The presentation was less of a fashion show and more an impromptu gig, with the collection being worn by a selection of some of Daley's favourite UK jazz artists - Yussef Dayes, Mansur Brown, Alfa Mist and Shabaka Hutchings - while they put on an intimate, incense-scented show in London's Swiss Church.

The clothes themselves were the kind we really get a kick out of: clearly beautifully designed with plenty of detail and interesting shapes to keep a fashion-focussed man happy, but still innately covetable and wearable. Daley's now-signature trouser shape (high waisted and wide through the thigh, then tapering down at the ankle) was well-represented on stage, paired up with Harrington jackets, as well as a wool parka and a dashiki. For the bolder, there was also a matching band-collared, pin-striped shirt and trouser suit as well as a kilt cut from supremely tactile dark blue velvet (another nod to the designer's Scottish heritage). It's a silhouette we'd be tempted to call slouchy-smart - the kind of thing that hits that tricky crosshair of comfort and sophistication spot-on. 

A rich palette of yellow, dark red, black, navy and green was inspired in large part by the cover art of Freddie Hubbard's record Red Clay - after which the collection was named. This image features a blazing sun poking over the clouds, the dark black sky causing its flares to explode out in blood red rays.